The strange story of Manali’s Hadimba Devi Temple
This ancient temple stands by a dense cedar forest, which is a surprise in the otherwise touristy Manali. The forest cover around Hadimba Devi Temple is impressively thick, sunlight failing to touch the ground at many places. No wonder that the presiding deity of the temple is also known as the Forest Goddess or the Goddess of Nature. On a typical summer day, you will find snaking queues of devotees in and around the temple complex. While devotees from all over the country are a regular here, locals pray to the Goddess mostly in case of a natural calamity.
The temple was built by Maharaja Bahadur Singh in 1553, and has stood quite some tests of time. An intricate four-storey structure, it looks like a deserted cabin in the woods if there is nobody around. Look closer and you will spot its exteriors adorned with sacrificial remains of animals, includings goats, buffaloes and antelopes. Animal sacrifice is still a norm at the temple, especially when a new ruler is coronated. While it does sound rudimentary, you will know that practices like this are a part of this region’s culture, which is slowly embracing change.
Photo by: Biswarup Ganguly, Creative Commons Attribution Licence
Devotees believe that the temple stands at the site, where Hindu deity Hadimba (Hidimba) meditated. This reference connects the site to the days of Mahabharata. Going by that the forest around must have been insanely dense than it is now, and home to Hadimba, who was born in a rakshasa (demon) family. She married Bhim, one of the five Pandava brothers, as mentioned in the epic itself. Going by the same story, the forest around the temple was terrorised by her brother, Hidimb, who was killed by Bhim in a fierce battle. While you may not believe the story surrounding it, the temple and the vibe around it is nothing less than mystical.
When you mention Manali, there is no skipping a mention of this temple. If Manali was a person, this temple can rightly be called its heart. Even in the face of growing tourism, and its courtyards becoming increasingly commercial with locals selling everything from yak cheese and wild gooseberries to yak rides!
Photo by: Ashish3724, Creative Commons Attribution Licence
The best time to visit the temple is September to April if you wish to beat the crowds; else, it stays open all through the year. Winters often bring heavy snowfall to Manali, and the temple makes for a quite a stunning sight then. The ritual arti here is not something that you would want to miss.
If you do not find peace in the temple complex, the surrounding forest is where you should spend some hours. While the story of Hadimba Devi Temple can have atheists raising eyebrows, the idea of a goddess guarding the forests is nothing less than inviting, for this world needs more such protectors.
Timing – 8 AM to 6 PM (all days of the week)
How to reach Hadimba Temple?
The temple is located around 2 km from the Manali town, and just 100 m from the Mall Road. It is easily accessible by a bus or taxi; opt for the one that suits you the most. The Joginder Nagar Railway Station is the nearest railway station to Manali, if you are considering to visit this place via train. The temple is merely 2 km away from the station; from there you can hire a cab or opt to walk till the spot.
Some even prefer to trek to the temple, which definitely adds to their overall scenic and spiritual journey.